In the lush hills of Papua New Guinea’s highlands, Ambua Lodge stands as a beacon of hope amidst the picturesque yet troubled surroundings of Hela province. This region, known for its poverty and tribal conflicts, is witnessing a transformation through tourism, as the lodge attempts to carve a new path for the area.
Despite its history of conflict, Ambua Lodge has welcomed tens of thousands of visitors from around the globe. The country’s leaders are eager to attract even more tourists to this remote location. In December, Papua New Guinea’s Prime Minister, James Marape, visited Ambua Lodge to celebrate its four decades of “safe and successful investment” in the region.
“I encourage other Papua New Guineans and potential investors, both local and international, not to be discouraged by negativity,” Marape said.
Tourism as a Catalyst for Change
Jayesh Naduvil from Trans Niugini Tours, which operates Ambua Lodge, emphasizes that regional tensions have not deterred visitors. Many tourists are drawn to the area for the Huli Wigmen, birdwatching, and nature trails. The lodge, with its thatched-roof rooms overlooking lush valleys, offers a unique experience.
“None of our clients ever had any law and order issues, as all our drivers and guides are from the community and are usually aware if there are any issues and avoid the areas,” Naduvil explains.
Tribal fighting is not uncommon in parts of Papua New Guinea, but recent conflicts in the highlands, including in Enga and Hela provinces, have become more deadly due to the availability of sophisticated weapons. Despite these challenges, Trans Niugini also operates Rondon Ridge in the Western province, a luxury hotel with ties to the local Melpa tribe.
The Melpa tribe, deeply connected to their land and ancient cultures, has embraced tourism as a means of economic growth. Naduvil notes that the tribe saw the benefits of tourism in other areas and invited Trans Niugini to build a tourist lodge.
Growing Industry and Economic Potential
The tourism industry in Papua New Guinea is on the rise. According to the Pacific Tourism Organisation, there was a 9.3% increase in international visitors to the country in the first half of 2025. The majority of tourists come from Australia (39%), followed by Asia (35%).
Tourism Minister Belden Namah described the industry as a “sleeping giant” with vast potential, emphasizing the need for more funding to develop the sector. He called tourism a “pot of gold that remains unexplored.”
Authentic Culture and Adventure
About 250 kilometers east of Hela province lies another attraction: Mount Wilhelm, Papua New Guinea’s highest peak. This area, while closer to the coast, also grapples with violence and crime. Here, Betty’s Place serves as a haven for those seeking to conquer Mt Wilhelm, offering adventure and authentic cultural experiences.
In the late 1980s, Betty and her Australian husband, Kenneth Higgins, purchased land to grow vegetables. Over time, their home evolved into a hotel after a group of mountain climbers sought shelter there in the mid-1990s. Despite initial challenges like the lack of water, electricity, and roads, Betty’s Place has become a hub for climbers.
“We run generators and have wifi through a satellite. We do have solar, but it only powers LED lights – we cannot get the technology to sustain our operations in solar alone,” says Ruth, who now manages the hotel.
Visitors to Betty’s Place experience Melanesian culture intimately connected to the land and its spirits. The hotel promotes authentic cultural practices, high-altitude orchids, and bird species endemic to the area.
Robert Mads Anderson, a tourist from the US, described the lodge as a “magical place in the midst of a whole lot of wilderness,” praising its warm atmosphere, fresh food, and local trout.
Ruth Higgins highlights that law and order in the village surrounding Betty’s Place is not a concern, and locals benefit economically by working as tourist guides. However, she calls for more support from PNG authorities to address challenges like maintaining basic utilities for visitors.
“We are pushing for people to see the benefits of tourism … and the importance of keeping what we have as pristine as possible. We are so passionate about it,” Ruth says.
The development of tourism in Papua New Guinea’s highlands represents a significant opportunity for economic growth and cultural preservation. As the industry continues to expand, it holds the promise of transforming troubled regions into thriving destinations, showcasing the rich heritage and natural beauty of this unique part of the world.
