Smith Street, a vibrant artery in Melbourne’s Collingwood, has long been celebrated for its eclectic mix of dining options and gritty charm. However, significant changes are underway as the beloved fine-dining establishment Ides prepares to close its doors, making way for fast-casual chains and retail giants.
On March 14, Ides will serve its final meal, marking the end of an era for the decade-old high-concept diner. Chef Peter Gunn, the visionary behind Ides, reflects on the restaurant’s journey and the evolving landscape of Smith Street. “I think we had a natural fit for the area,” Gunn remarks, noting the street’s enduring diversity and energy.
The Rise and Fall of Smith Street’s Culinary Scene
In 2014, Smith Street was heralded as a culinary hotspot, with Good Food highlighting its transformation from casual eateries to a burgeoning dining destination. Establishments like Shop Ramen and Messina set the stage with their youthful branding and focused offerings. Soon after, high-end dining arrived with Scott Pickett’s Saint Crispin and Victor Liong’s Lee Ho Fook, followed by Ides in 2016.
However, as Gunn prepares to bid farewell to Ides, he acknowledges the broader shifts in dining culture that have influenced Smith Street’s transformation. The closure of Ides is not merely a reflection of changing local tastes but part of a larger trend towards economic polarization in dining preferences.
Gentrification and Its Impact
Smith Street’s evolution is emblematic of the gentrification sweeping through many urban neighborhoods. As developers eye the area for new apartment projects, the street’s character is inevitably changing. The closure of the Fitzroy Woolworths on January 31st, set to be replaced by apartments, underscores this shift.
Gunn observes, “When they knock down these old buildings and put up new apartment blocks… that’s when we see this influx of restaurants that you wouldn’t associate with Collingwood or Smith Street.” The arrival of chains like KFC and Guzman y Gomez further illustrates the street’s changing identity.
The Future of Dining on Smith Street
Despite these changes, Gunn remains optimistic about the street’s future. While he acknowledges the challenges faced by mid-range restaurants, he believes there is still room for unique, independent venues that resonate with the local community. “You can’t force yourself into Collingwood,” Gunn asserts. “You’ve got to have a bit of personality and make-up that fits in.”
Looking ahead, Gunn hints at a new venture that will embrace a more relaxed dining experience, moving away from the fine dining model. “I don’t believe fine dining’s dead,” he says. “There’s just a desire for less of it, not more.”
As Smith Street continues to evolve, its cultural impact remains to be seen. While the influx of chains may alter its landscape, the street’s enduring spirit and diversity may yet prevail.
“The edge of the street still exists,” Gunn says. “But maybe in a few years’ time, as these bigger brands push in, that’ll take some of the culture with it.”
Ides will host its last service on Saturday, March 14 at 92 Smith Street, Collingwood. For more information, visit idesmelbourne.com.au.
