For Betty Yung, the adage “it takes a village to raise a child” resonates deeply. In the late 1990s, she balanced the demands of running Fong’s Chinese Restaurant in Melbourne’s Bentleigh East with raising four children. While her children are now adults, the memories of countless hours spent at the restaurant remain vivid.
“The table I just set up in the back is my children’s table,” Betty recalls, gesturing to a corner of the restaurant. Behind the dark tinted walls, about a dozen tables draped with white cloth await the lunch crowd, and it’s only 10:15 a.m. On any given weeknight, long after her children used to do their homework or play with other customers’ kids, Fong’s still exudes a family-friendly atmosphere.
The Legacy of Fong’s Chinese Restaurant
Fong’s has been a cornerstone of Betty’s family since her uncle, Fong Kee Chiu, established it in 1961 after emigrating from Hong Kong. According to the family, it was the first Chinese restaurant in the area. Betty officially took over the business in 1997, with her husband Wood assisting in the kitchen and her cousin David, Fong Kee Chiu’s son, helping out when needed.
The restaurant has thrived by maintaining quality and consistency. “Other food shops in Bentleigh East … they come and go. They don’t last long,” David notes. This reputation has been built on perfecting their signature dishes, sweet and sour pork and steak with black bean sauce.
Preserving Tradition at Kingsland Chinese Restaurant
About 30 kilometers east of Fong’s, in Boronia, another family-run establishment is preparing for a busy week. Kevin Tran has been at the helm of Kingsland Chinese Restaurant since 1991, though the venue has been a local fixture since the 1970s. His son, Graham, has been involved since childhood, celebrating family milestones and learning the business’s intricacies.
“It was always fun for me to speak with my customers, who’ve become more than just customers; they’ve become friends and family,” Graham explains. The restaurant’s nostalgic charm is evident in its unchanged decor, including a large octagonal window that bathes the dining area in natural light.
“The walls are still the same from the 70s, the chairs are still the same,” Graham says.
The venue’s iconic status was even recognized by Australia’s longest-running TV soap, Neighbours, which used it as a set for an episode. Despite the unchanged decor, the restaurant continues to draw in patrons with its extensive menu of Cantonese dishes, including the specialty combination bird’s nest.
More Than Just Food: The Role of Community
Both Fong’s and Kingsland have thrived by fostering a sense of community. At Kingsland, the father-son duo emphasizes traditional service, with staff taking orders and refilling water, creating a welcoming atmosphere.
Back at Fong’s, Betty’s management style is similarly traditional. She prefers physical menus and hand-written orders, often working solo. Her customers, accustomed to this approach, sometimes even take the initiative to write down their orders themselves.
“You come in, you just feel like home … they can do what they like,” Betty says.
Generations Returning to Their Roots
As Kevin Tran continues to run Kingsland, he is confident the restaurant will remain open for many years. His grandson is already following in the family’s footsteps, ensuring the legacy continues.
New generations are rediscovering these culinary institutions, seeking the familiar flavors of their childhoods. “We are seeing a lot more younger families coming and enjoying our restaurant,” Graham observes. Having grown up as a “restaurant kid,” he is committed to serving the community that feels like family.
“People who don’t come for 10 years and enjoyed the meal … can come back 10 years later knowing that it’ll be exactly the same experience they had then,” Graham says.
The enduring success of these restaurants highlights the power of tradition, quality, and community in a rapidly changing culinary landscape. As Melbourne’s food scene continues to evolve, establishments like Fong’s and Kingsland remain steadfast, offering a taste of nostalgia and a reminder of the familial bonds that food can create.
