The world of haute horlogerie witnessed a remarkable unveiling with the introduction of the Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3. This extraordinary timepiece, priced at CHF 850,000, was presented during a visit by Vincent Lapaire, General Manager of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. The watch, limited to just 11 movements, is a testament to the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship and innovation.
The Naissance d’une Montre 3 is not just any watch; it is a horological marvel, embodying the essence of traditional watchmaking. The series consists of ten pieces available in white gold, with customization options for metals, finishes, and colors. The eleventh piece is destined for charity, to be auctioned at Phillips’ The Geneva Watch Auction: XXII in November 2025, with delivery set for 2026.
Handcrafted Excellence
The term “handmade” takes on a profound meaning in the context of the Naissance d’une Montre 3. Ferdinand Berthoud adheres to a stringent definition, where nearly 98% of the watch is crafted using hand-controlled tools. Vintage machines, meticulously restored and recalibrated, play a pivotal role in this process. Even the balance, hairspring, and mainspring are produced in-house, with only rubies and crystals sourced externally.
This dedication to craftsmanship is rooted in the standards set by the Time Æon Foundation and mirrors the practices of Greubel Forsey in their Hand Made series. The Naissance d’une Montre 3 follows in the footsteps of its predecessors, Naissance d’une Montre 1 and 2, both of which were limited to 11 pieces and involved extensive collaborations among master watchmakers.
“The brilliance of the finishing is immediately apparent on first encounter. Every part is magnificently polished. The crown is superbly impressive.” – Hands-on commentary
A Testament to Horological Heritage
The Naissance d’une Montre 3 is more than a timepiece; it is a horological heritage project with a profound human dimension. Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, it is handcrafted using traditional tools without digital assistance. The watch features a constant force via a fusee-and-chain transmission system, a bimetallic balance, and an open structure, all deeply rooted in the legacy of Master Watchmaker Ferdinand Berthoud.
This project coincides with the tenth anniversary of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud and represents the culmination of six years of meticulous work. It involved over 80 artisans and specialists from Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud and Chopard, working together to create a contemporary watch inspired by Ferdinand Berthoud’s Astronomical Pocket Watch No. 3.
“Naissance d’une Montre 3 aims to harness talents past and future, to gather their notes and sketches and to unite their knowledge in pursuit of a common goal: not the timepiece itself, but rather the preservation of all the expertise that brings it to life.” – Press Release
Challenges and Innovations
The creation of the Naissance d’une Montre 3 was not without its challenges. The watch’s 44 mm-diameter, 13 mm-thick case features unique shapes inspired by historical designs, crafted using hand-operated machine tools. The Chopard group played a crucial role in overcoming these challenges, leveraging in-house expertise in jewelry making and micro mechanics.
One of the most remarkable features of the Naissance d’une Montre 3 is its movement, the Calibre FB-BTC.FC. It includes a thermo-compensated balance and a fusee-and-chain transmission system. The balance is a bimetallic Guillaume-type, designed to maintain oscillation frequency by compensating for temperature effects. This intricate mechanism is a testament to the brand’s commitment to preserving traditional watchmaking skills.
“The figures speak for themselves: from the first sketch to the delivery of the first timepiece, nearly 11,000 hours of work were required.” – Press Release
Preserving a Legacy
The Naissance d’une Montre 3 is a tribute to the master watchmakers who have left an indelible mark on the history of horology. It embodies the teachings of Ferdinand Berthoud and his nephew Louis Berthoud, who emphasized the importance of time and experience in achieving precision. The project also serves as a reminder of the need to safeguard and transmit traditional watchmaking skills to future generations.
As the world eagerly anticipates the auction of the eleventh piece in 2025, the Naissance d’une Montre 3 stands as a beacon of craftsmanship and innovation. It is a reminder that in the world of haute horlogerie, the journey is as important as the destination, and the preservation of expertise is a legacy worth cherishing.
