In a world where technological advancements often overshadow traditional craftsmanship, the unveiling of the Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3 stands as a testament to the enduring allure of handmade artistry. This exclusive timepiece, presented by Vincent Lapaire, General Manager of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, during a recent visit, captivates with its meticulous craftsmanship and historical significance.
The Naissance d’une Montre 3 is priced at CHF 850,000, inclusive of Swiss tax, and is limited to just 11 movements. Ten of these are commercially available in white gold, with the option for owners to customize with various metals, finishings, and colors, produced over five years at a rate of two per year. The eleventh piece is destined for auction at Phillips’ The Geneva Watch Auction: XXII in November 2025, with proceeds supporting charity.
A Tribute to Traditional Watchmaking
The Naissance d’une Montre 3 is more than just a watch; it is a celebration of traditional watchmaking techniques. Ferdinand Berthoud defines “handmade” as a process where tools are controlled entirely by hand. This approach harkens back to the original specifications set by the Time Æon Foundation and mirrors the craftsmanship seen in Greubel Forsey’s Hand Made 1 and 2, as well as the first Naissance d’une Montre.
Old machines, refurbished and recalibrated, play a pivotal role in crafting nearly 98% of the Montre 3. The maison even produces its own balance, hairspring, and mainspring, sourcing only rubies and crystals externally. The collaboration with Chopard is evident in the two diamond end-stones for the balance, a nod to the intimate partnership within the extended company.
The Challenges and Craftsmanship
Creating the Naissance d’une Montre 3 was no small feat. The watch measures 44.3mm in diameter and is crafted from 18k white gold, offering a light yet substantial feel. The brilliance of its finishing is immediately apparent, with every part meticulously polished. The hands are blued using a special technique to ensure uniformity across all 11 pieces.
In a conversation with Vincent Lapaire, the pricing of the watch was discussed. With 11,000 hours of craftsmanship invested in producing just 11 watches, determining a price was challenging. Ultimately, the price of CHF 850,000 was set, reflecting the immense research, craftsmanship, and detailing involved. Lapaire suggests that this price may even be undervalued, considering the preservation and documentation of ancient techniques for future generations.
The Horological Heritage Project
The Naissance d’une Montre 3 project is a horological heritage initiative with a significant human dimension. It represents the culmination of six years of work, resulting in a timekeeper officially chronometer-certified by the COSC and handcrafted using traditional tools without digital assistance. Its technical and aesthetic features are deeply rooted in the legacy of Master Watchmaker Ferdinand Berthoud.
The project coincides with the tenth anniversary of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, fulfilling an ambitious dream nurtured by its founder, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. The creation involved over 80 artisans and specialists from Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud and Chopard, drawing on a wide range of expertise to produce a contemporary watch inspired by Ferdinand Berthoud’s Astronomical Pocket Watch No. 3.
Complex Mechanics and Design
The Naissance d’une Montre 3 features a unique combination of a split bimetallic temperature-compensated Guillaume-type balance wheel and a constant-force fusee-and-chain transmission system. The movement is housed in a new 44mm-diameter 18-carat gold case, designed specifically for this occasion.
The balance of the Calibre FB-BTC.FC is a technical marvel, inspired by the Astronomical Watch No. 3. It employs a bimetallic Guillaume-type thermo-compensated split balance made of Invar and brass, equipped with gold adjustment screws and nickel silver weights for thermal compensation. This design maintains oscillation frequency by compensating for temperature effects, a tribute to the inventor of Invar alloy, Charles Edouard Guillaume.
“Naissance d’une Montre 3 is a true tribute to watchmaking expertise,” says Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. “For more than six years, artisans from across the Chopard group committed themselves to mastering traditional watchmaking skills to create this extraordinary timepiece.”
Preserving Watchmaking Expertise
The Naissance d’une Montre 3 project is dedicated to preserving and transmitting traditional watchmaking skills. It involves a cross-disciplinary effort, drawing on the expertise of artisans from various crafts and locations, including Fleurier and Meyrin. The project also aims to document and reference the entire production process, creating a comprehensive database of photos and videos illustrating the methods used to create each component.
This initiative is part of a tradition of learning and passing on watchmaking expertise, a value deeply important to Ferdinand Berthoud and his nephew Louis Berthoud. In 1812, Louis published a book recounting his watchmaking lessons, emphasizing the importance of time and experience in achieving precision.
In tribute to these teachings, the maxim “AU TEMPS QUI INSTRUIT” [Dedicated to time, the great teacher] is hand-engraved on the back of the movement, embodying the wisdom of master watchmakers who have left an indelible mark on history.
Future Implications
The Naissance d’une Montre 3 is not just a timepiece; it is a symbol of the enduring value of traditional craftsmanship in a modern world. As the watchmaking industry continues to evolve, projects like this serve as a reminder of the importance of preserving and passing on the skills that define the art of horology.
As the first piece is auctioned in November 2025, the proceeds will support a charity dedicated to preserving watchmaking expertise for future generations. This initiative ensures that the knowledge and skills of past artisans continue to inspire and educate future watchmakers, keeping the art of handmade watches alive for years to come.
