October 6, 2025 — 5:00am
Tokyo’s largest entertainment district, Shinjuku, offers an electrifying experience that is not for the fainthearted but is sure to captivate the inquisitive. This bustling area, reminiscent of a sci-fi movie set, features glittering futuristic buildings adorned with video messages, robot-operated restaurants, and shadowy alleys lined with intriguing bars.
Visitors encounter a diverse array of sights in Shinjuku: from the iconic Godzilla to charming hosts catering to lonely patrons, faux Buddhist monks seeking alms, persistent touts, and even the occasional yakuza gangster. Amidst this eclectic mix, ordinary Tokyoites flock to the district to explore and unwind.
Shinjuku: A Transport and Shopping Powerhouse
Located just west of central Tokyo, Shinjuku is home to a sprawling train station—a labyrinth of train and subway lines topped with a bustling bus station. This transportation hub sees over two million commuters, shoppers, and students pass through daily.
Beyond the station, renowned department stores like Isetan, Keio, and Takashimaya lure shoppers with their vast offerings, including basement food halls brimming with bento boxes and other culinary delights. Nearby megastores boast the latest electronics and gadgets, often unavailable in other parts of the world.
Skyscrapers and Serene Views
Dominating the Shinjuku skyline is the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, renowned for its nightly projection mapping displays, which often feature Godzilla. Visitors can enjoy breathtaking views from the building’s free observation decks, with the south tower offering particularly stunning vistas of the cityscape below.
Surrounding the government building are other towering skyscrapers and luxury hotels, including the Park Hyatt, famous from the film “Lost in Translation” and recently reopened. Yet, the ever-changing nature of Shinjuku makes it feel more like a dynamic video game than a static movie set.
Exploring Shinjuku’s Diverse Zones
To truly appreciate Shinjuku, it’s best to explore its distinct zones. North of the station, the abundance of ramen shops has earned the area the nickname “Ramen Battleground.”
Shinjuku Nichome is the city’s vibrant gay neighborhood, while Yasukuni-dori is lined with bustling karaoke chains. Shinjuku Sanchome offers a more subdued atmosphere with numerous small izakaya eateries. Further afield, Shin-kubo Koreatown provides a taste of K-pop culture, ginseng, and bulgogi.
The artsy Golden Gai district, a maze of 200 tiny bars, exudes a shantytown charm with its rusty signs, peeling doors, and tangled electric cabling. Each bar offers a unique vibe, from raucous to genteel, some welcoming to foreigners, others more insular.
The Wild Heart of Kabukicho
At the heart of Shinjuku’s frenetic energy lies Kabukicho, a red-light district that doubles as a party hotspot, especially after the trains stop running at 1am. Visitors should remain vigilant, as touts, exorbitant cover charges, and drink spiking are not uncommon.
This area is teeming with restaurants, lively pachinko parlors, and love hotels. In the midst of it all, a batting range offers a chance to practice your swing. Shops sell a diverse array of goods, from socks and groceries to adult toys, often under one roof.
For those seeking luxury, Shinanoya provides an impressive selection of wines, liquors, and cheeses. Nearby, Kabukiya offers second-hand designer bags from brands like Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton. Other shops cater to the male hosts of ladies’ bars, selling pink suits and velvet jackets.
Check out the giant billboard outside Club The Stinger, which lists the earnings of its star performers, shown in poster-sized photos, all looking as if they’ve graduated from Korean boy bands. No. 3, who wears a Prada sweatshirt and has a black fringe drooping over his eyes and mouth red as a geisha’s, has earned ¥8 million ($85,000) in the last few months on tips and commissions on the thousands of bottles of champagne he encourages his clients to buy. Nice work, and in Shinjuku barely even remarkable.
Travel and Accommodation Details
For travelers planning a visit, Japan Airlines offers flights from Sydney and Melbourne to Tokyo. For those seeking accommodation beyond the bustling Shinjuku, the ANA InterContinental Tokyo provides luxury with stunning views and exceptional dining, with rooms starting at ¥45,420 ($482) per night.
For more information, visit gotokyo.org.
The writer was a guest of the Tokyo Convention & Visitors Bureau and ANA InterContinental Tokyo.
