“Just remember, we’re the weird ones,” my husband reminds me as we attempt to explain our breakfast tea request to a bemused hotelier in China’s Yunnan province. Using Google Translate, we ask for tea to accompany our noodles, side dishes, and warm soy milk. The hotelier, slightly puzzled but accommodating, brings us two cups of green tea. This small cultural exchange is just one of many surprises on our first trip to China, a journey filled with unexpected encounters and breathtaking landscapes.
Our adventure begins with a decision driven by practicality and curiosity: affordable flights and a visa-free entry policy for stays up to 30 days. The favorable exchange rate sweetened the deal, promising luxury accommodations at a fraction of the usual cost. We chose to bypass China’s bustling metropolises, opting instead for the natural allure of Yunnan, a region famed for its mountainous terrain and picturesque ancient towns, many of which have been reconstructed for tourism.
The Allure of Yunnan’s Landscapes
Yunnan is a magnet for domestic tourists, drawing 539 million visitors in 2023 alone. Its appeal lies in the unique architecture and rich culture of the ethnic groups residing there. Our naivety led us to believe that navigating this popular region would be straightforward. However, the reality proved to be a delightful challenge, reminiscent of travel before the convenience of translation apps and GPS navigation.
The region’s landscape is nothing short of spectacular, with an average elevation of 1,700 meters. Hiking trails and cable cars offer stunning views, the highest reaching 4,500 meters on Yulong Snow Mountain near Lijiang. The lush valleys and lakeside towns, with their close-set wooden buildings, create a surreal backdrop for endless photo shoots. This has spawned a booming business in minority dress photography, with studios outnumbering gift shops in ancient towns.
Challenges and Cultural Encounters
Navigating Yunnan presents its own set of challenges, particularly with the Great Firewall of China blocking Google services. While Apple Maps offers a more reliable alternative, it is not without flaws. We circumvented these restrictions using an eSIM, allowing access to our Google apps. The kindness of strangers often bridged the gap, with taxi drivers and hotel staff going out of their way to assist us.
The warmth of the local people was a constant surprise. In Kunming, we experienced exceptional hospitality at a hotel within the World Horti-Expo Garden, a legacy of the 1999 exhibition showcasing global gardens. Our dinner at what we assumed was a regular restaurant turned into a private dining experience, complete with attentive service and a group photo with the staff.
Tourism and Infrastructure
China’s approach to tourism is both impressive and controlled. High-speed trains whisk visitors across the countryside, while new freeways and towering buildings mark the rapid development. Tourist sites feature expansive ticket halls and efficient shuttle services. Despite the crowds, it is easy to find solitude by venturing a short distance beyond the main attractions.
At the Shilin Stone Forest near Kunming, a popular labyrinthine rock formation, we quickly left the bustling tour groups behind to enjoy the scenery in peace. China’s curated natural attractions, like Pudacuo National Park and Yulong Snow Mountain, offer well-maintained paths and facilities, though surveillance cameras and loudspeakers are ubiquitous.
A Journey of Discovery
Our trip to Yunnan was a reminder of the thrill of travel without complete control, akin to our backpacking days. The region’s breathtaking landscapes and the genuine hospitality of its people left a lasting impression. Despite the challenges, or perhaps because of them, we would eagerly embark on this journey again.
For those considering a visit, numerous airlines offer flights to Kunming with transits in major cities like Shanghai, Beijing, or Guangzhou. The journey promises an unforgettable experience, rich with cultural exchanges and natural beauty.
