October 25, 2025 — 12:00am
In the shadow of Osaka’s bustling urban landscape lies the Kii Peninsula, a region steeped in spiritual significance and natural beauty. This area, revered by Shinto and Buddhist pilgrims for centuries, offers an escape from the frenetic pace of city life to a world where tradition and tranquility prevail.
The Gateway to Spiritual Journeys: Takahara Village
Begin your exploration at Takahara village, the spiritual gateway to the Kumano Kodo pilgrim trail. The journey starts at the Takijiri Shrine, where a steep two-hour ascent through lush forests and bamboo groves awaits. This challenging hike rewards travelers with the serene beauty of Takahara village, nestled among rice paddies with panoramic views. Visitors can rejuvenate with a hearty beef hotpot, a refreshing Kirin beer, and a soothing soak in a hot-spring bath as the sun sets over the purple-hued hills.
Scenic Trails and Sacred Shrines
Walking the Path from Hosshinmon Shrine
The Kumano Kodo is a network of ancient trails, and one of its most picturesque sections stretches seven kilometers between Hosshinmon and Kumano Hongu shrines. The path winds through verdant farmland and tea plantations, offering pitstops in quaint villages for chilled plum juice. As the trail dips into the forest, travelers encounter mini-shrines and stone Buddhas, with opportunities to meditate on logs beneath towering cedar trees.
The Majesty of Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine
Among the region’s most significant spiritual sites, the Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine stands out for its Shinto modesty and simplicity. Despite its unassuming appearance, the shrine’s traditional carpentry and serene atmosphere captivate visitors. Pilgrims’ polite clapping echoes through the grounds as they seek the attention of the gods. Nearby, the Wakayama World Heritage Centre provides insights into the shrine’s historical and cultural significance.
Mount Koya-san: A Buddhist Haven
Since the ninth century, Mount Koya-san has been a center of Buddhist practice, with its eight peaks adorned with temples, meditation halls, and stupas. Visitors can stay in temple lodgings, participate in morning meditations, and enjoy vegetarian meals. Okunoin, Japan’s largest and most sacred cemetery, offers a mystical experience with its stone lanterns and mausoleums nestled beneath ancient cedar trees. Evening guided walks reveal the ethereal beauty of the lantern-lit Toro-do Hall, where pilgrims chant sutras.
Relaxation and Reflection in Hot Springs
The Kii Peninsula is renowned for its hot springs, providing a perfect respite for weary hikers. At Kawayu Onsen, warm waters bubble up in the Oto River, offering a unique winter experience with a massive open-air bath. The UNESCO-listed Yunomine Onsen features historic wooden buildings in a narrow valley, where pilgrims perform purification rituals and tourists boil eggs in the stream. Coastal hot springs at Shirahama and Katsuura add to the region’s allure.
Ascending Daimon Slope and Nachi Mountain
The Daimon Slope, a must-walk section of the Kumano Kodo, challenges pilgrims with its 600-meter ascent beneath ancient cedar trees. Some visitors don traditional Heian Period costumes, enhancing the sense of stepping back in time. At the summit, a Shinto shrine and Buddhist temple await, offering a moment of reflection.
Continuing beyond Daimon Slope, travelers reach Nachi Mountain, home to Japan’s tallest waterfall and a striking bright-orange pagoda. The waterfall, a sacred site since ancient times, is believed to grant longevity to those who drink its waters. The pagoda and nearby viewing platform provide breathtaking vistas, while the Hirou Shrine at the waterfall’s base offers an immersive experience of nature’s power.
The writer traveled as a guest of the Wakayama Tourism Federation. For more information, visit visitwakayama.jp/en.
Brian Johnston, an Irishman born in Nigeria and raised in Switzerland, has lived in Britain and China and now calls Australia home. His diverse background informs his passion for travel writing, capturing the essence of destinations around the world.
