That evening, nestled in the cozy attic sauna of my hotel, I found myself engaged in conversation with three businessmen from Turku. Contrary to the stereotype of Finns being introverted, they were open and inquisitive. When I asked about happiness in Finland, one of them remarked, “Life is good here. Everything works and people trust each other.”
Trust emerged as a recurring theme in our discussion. The businessmen explained that most Finns value having a few close friends rather than numerous acquaintances. There’s also a strong confidence in public systems and the authorities governing them. They acknowledged the high taxes but emphasized the returns: free education, healthcare, and a robust welfare state.
Journey Through Finland’s Natural Beauty
From Porvoo, I ventured north into the Lakeland region, a vast labyrinth of islands, lakes, and canals, forming Europe’s largest lake district. The drive was a visual feast, with winding roads flanked by pristine forests and shimmering inlets.
My stay at Sahanlahti Resort, a former sawmill turned sprawling retreat on Lake Saimaa, was nothing short of rejuvenating. The resort offered a range of accommodations, from campsites to luxury villas, and boasted five saunas and three restaurants. In my sleek villa overlooking the lake, I found a sense of peace. Mornings began with a refreshing swim in the lake’s tannin-stained waters, followed by a hearty breakfast on the terrace.
Exploring the surrounding wilderness, I hiked along deserted trails through boulder-strewn forests and pristine lakeside beaches. The absence of litter and graffiti was striking. One afternoon, I took a mid-hike nap on a rocky outcrop, a first for me.
Evenings were spent in my villa’s private sauna, followed by a soak in the outdoor hot tub under the rising moon. The stillness of the setting was profound, interrupted only by the occasional honk of a distant goose. This natural quietude, I mused, might explain why Finns are comfortable with silence. “We respect it,” a guide in Helsinki later told me. “It’s part of the conversation. If you don’t mean it, don’t say it.”
Understanding Finnish Contentment
On my last night at the resort, Valentina, a vivacious Milanese working there for the summer, served my dinner. “I love it here,” she said. “The nature, the people – everything is different. In the towns, there are toys in the playground for everyone to use.” She added, “This would not work in Italy.”
When asked about Finnish happiness, she observed, “People are content with what they have, whereas I want things I don’t need. I try to learn from them.”
From Sahanlahti, I traveled to Kuopio, a larger city in the Lakeland region, staying at Bella Lake Resort. My cabin, complete with a private sauna and a deck leading into Lake Kallavesi, was a stone’s throw from Kuopion Saana, a complex with saunas, an “experience shower,” and an ice-cold plunge bath.
Ari Lempinen, the property manager, invited me for “sausage grilling,” a popular Finnish summer pastime. We cycled to a forest shelter, joining a local family. The husband noted, “Lots of people take antidepressants, especially in winter. But overall, things are fine. Everyone is equal, and the wealth gap is small.”
“When I ask them if there’s a secret to Finland’s consistently high happiness rating, the wife gestures to the surrounding forest and says: ‘This.’”
The Wilderness Experience
The final leg of my journey took me to the Bear Centre, a remote property near the Russian border. Here, between April and October, wild brown bears visit, along with wolverines, red foxes, and occasionally lynx and wolves.
Owner Ari Saaski showed me to my cabin, a modern villa with uninterrupted forest views. “Don’t leave the cabin before breakfast tomorrow,” he advised. As night fell, I settled by the window, listening to the hum of insects and the occasional twig snap.
Just before darkness enveloped the forest, a wolverine appeared, followed by a red fox. The next morning, I watched the sunrise, seeing the fox again and several Eurasian jays, but no bears. Surprisingly, I wasn’t disappointed. Perhaps it was a newfound appreciation for nature and silence, or a shift in mindset.
Back in Helsinki, I asked Appelberg, my Sompasauna friend, about the secret to Finnish happiness. He smiled and said, “It’s simple. Low expectations.” A laconic reply, yet insightful. While there’s no quick fix for contentment, aiming for equanimity over elation seems a good start.
Global Perspectives on Happiness
Five More Happy Places Around the World
- Denmark: Consistently ranked second in the World Happiness Report, Denmark excels in trust, equality, and social welfare. Its Viking history, innovative cuisine, and hygge make it a must-visit.
- Bhutan: Known for its Gross National Happiness policy, Bhutan prioritizes wellbeing over economic growth. Though costly to visit, it offers dramatic Himalayan scenery and remote monasteries.
- Thailand: The Land of Smiles is renowned for its hospitality, tropical beaches, historic temples, and affordable city thrills.
- Fiji: Famous for its sunny disposition, Fiji’s stunning islands, turquoise waters, and family-friendly culture ensure a warm welcome.
- Costa Rica: Ranked in the top 10 for happiness, Costa Rica’s biodiversity, ecotourism commitment, and “Pura Vida” attitude promote simple pleasures.
The Details
- Tour: Nordic specialist 50 Degrees North offers bespoke Finnish itineraries. Visit fiftydegreesnorth.com for more information.
- When: June to August are ideal for visiting the Lakeland region, with balmy temperatures and long days. May and September offer quieter visits with spring blooms and autumn colors.
- Fly: Several airlines provide one-stop services to Helsinki, including Qantas, Qatar Airways, and Japan Airlines. Finnair offers daily flights from Oulu to Helsinki.
- More: For further information, visit myhelsinki.fi and visitfinland.com.
