In a year teeming with watch releases, 2025 proved to be a landmark for the horological world. From the grand stages of Watches & Wonders, Geneva Watch Days, and Dubai Watch Week to the celebratory releases from giants like Audemars Piguet and Zenith, the sheer volume of new timepieces was staggering. Amid this flurry, some watches quietly stood out, deserving more attention than they initially received. As we move into 2026, the Time+Tide team reflects on the sleeper hits of 2025 that should not be overlooked.
Ember Rocket: A Microbrand Marvel
Tom Austin of Time+Tide highlights the Ember Rocket as a quintessential microbrand success story. Emerging from founder John Glinister’s sketches during the COVID pandemic, the Ember Rocket embodies the spirit of innovation and meticulous design. With a 40mm stainless steel case and a distinctive, angular profile, the watch is a testament to fine-tuning and balance.
The dial options are vibrant and playful, featuring sandwich-style lume plots and a shallow-angled chapter ring. Austin notes, “The Rocket shows such a high level of attention to detail that I’m genuinely struggling to imagine where John takes Ember next.” This watch is a sleeper hit that encapsulates the essence of microbrand ingenuity.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic: Innovation and Elegance
Jamie Weiss brings attention to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Geographic, a watch that combines beauty with mechanical innovation. While the Reverso Tribute Monoface garnered much of the spotlight, the Geographic model offers unique features such as a big date complication and a world time disc on the ‘Verso’ side.
The watch’s calibre 834 showcases Jaeger-LeCoultre’s prowess in horological innovation, with city indications laser-engraved onto the case and a hand-lacquered globe depiction. Weiss emphasizes, “This is a Reverso that offers both beauty and practicality on its Verso side; mechanical innovation on both sides.” Despite its slightly larger size, the Reverso Tribute Geographic stands out as a remarkable piece from 2025.
Bulgari Bronzo Chronograph: A Fusion of Luxury and Grit
Andrew O’Connor’s favorite from Geneva Watch Days is the Bulgari Bronzo Chronograph. The watch swaps a lightweight aluminum case for dense bronze, offering a heftier wearing experience and a patina that juxtaposes Italian luxury with rugged charm. Available in GMT and chronograph formats, these models are not groundbreaking but signify Bulgari’s playful approach to watchmaking.
O’Connor notes, “The Bulgari Bronzo models released in 2025 indicate to me that Bulgari is having fun, and the world needs more of that.” With automatic movements and 100 meters of water resistance, these watches are ready to make their mark.
Tudor Pelagos Ultra: A Dive Watch Refined
Jason Lee identifies the Tudor Pelagos Ultra as a standout from the brand’s 2025 lineup. Initially overshadowed by its 43mm case size, the Pelagos Ultra’s comfort and balance quickly shifted perceptions. Its matte black dial and sky-blue accents strike a confident balance between purpose and restraint.
Lee asserts, “The Pelagos Ultra doesn’t shout for attention, but it rewards time spent with it.” This watch exemplifies Tudor’s mastery in creating a professional dive watch that stands as a sleeper hit of the year.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Brown Ceramic: A Testament to Craftsmanship
Zach Blass praises the Louis Vuitton Tambour Brown Ceramic, launched at LVMH Watch Week 2025. Despite being overshadowed by other releases, the watch’s brown ceramic and rose gold hardware pay homage to Louis Vuitton’s iconic trunks. The brand’s commitment to high-end watchmaking is evident in the watch’s detailing and movement.
Blass remarks, “It is irrefutable how well this design came together.” As Louis Vuitton continues to champion independent watchmaking, the Tambour Brown Ceramic remains a testament to their evolving narrative.
Atelier Wen Inflection: A Luxurious Heavyweight
Andrew McUtchen’s pick, the Atelier Wen Inflection, stands out for its luxurious design and craftsmanship. With a tantalum finish and a bracelet architecture that borders on jewelry, the watch is a weighted masterpiece. Its onyx dial and calligraphic Chinese-style gold numerals add to its allure.
McUtchen reflects, “This is a watch where luxury just emanates from the object.” Developed with Girard-Perregaux, the Inflection showcases Atelier Wen’s commitment to high-value luxury watches.
Grand Seiko U.F.A.: Precision and Innovation
Borna Bošnjak highlights the Grand Seiko U.F.A. as a watch that deserved more attention for its precision and innovation. With a compact case and a toolless micro-adjust, the U.F.A. offers unmatched accuracy at +/-20 seconds per year.
Bošnjak questions, “How were these not a bigger deal?” As Grand Seiko releases more U.F.A. variants, the watch’s significance in the brand’s lineup continues to grow.
Czapek Time Jumper: A Futuristic Classic
Russell Sheldrake brings attention to the Czapek Time Jumper, a watch that combines futuristic design with classical elements. Its guilloché case and jumping hour display offer a tactile experience, while the exposed movement showcases Czapek’s craftsmanship.
Sheldrake advises, “If you are able to put one of these on your wrist, jump at the chance.” Despite its limited production, the Time Jumper stands as a highlight of 2025.
Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2: Craftsmanship at Its Finest
Pietro Pilla concludes with the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2, a watch that exemplifies extreme craftsmanship. Though overshadowed by its sibling, the Nano Foudroyante, the Hand Made 2’s balanced layout and multi-level construction captivate enthusiasts.
Pilla reflects, “The strong point of this watch is its extreme craftsmanship.” As a testament to Greubel Forsey’s dedication to horological excellence, the Hand Made 2 remains a masterpiece of 2025.
As we look back on 2025, these sleeper hits remind us that innovation and craftsmanship often lie just beneath the surface, waiting to be discovered and appreciated by discerning watch enthusiasts.
