Every autumn in the mid-2000s, as I lived in China, my friend Scarlett Li would invite me to Shanghai to savor hairy crab. Known for the spiky fur on their legs and claws, these crabs are said to have the best flavor during the ninth month of the lunar calendar. Steamed and served whole, they come with a dip of rice vinegar spiked with ginger. The most prized specimens hail from Yangcheng Lake near Suzhou, not far from Scarlett’s hometown of Wuxi. Despite her years abroad, Scarlett remained quintessentially Chinese, and eating hairy crab with her made me feel a part of that world.
Fuchsia Dunlop, a British food writer, has become an unexpected hero in the realm of Chinese cuisine. In her book, Invitation to a Banquet: The Story of Chinese Food, Dunlop explores the rich tapestry of Chinese culinary history through 30 dishes, including the esteemed hairy crab. Her work delves into the diversity and sophistication of Chinese gastronomy, which she argues has not received the global recognition it deserves.
The Historical Depth of Chinese Cuisine
Chinese culinary traditions date back thousands of years. Beginning in the Tang dynasty, crabs were harvested from the Yangtze delta and sent as tribute to the imperial court. By the 12th century, Hangzhou boasted specialized crab markets and dedicated crab restaurants. The 17th-century playwright Li Yu famously wrote,
“I have lusted after crabs all my life. From the first day of the crab season until the last day they are sold, I … do not let a single evening pass without eating them.”
Dunlop’s exploration reveals that many modern ideas about eating have ancient roots in China. The emphasis on consuming fresh, local, and seasonal produce has been integral since the earliest dynasties. Yuan Mei, an 18th-century gourmet, emphasized the importance of freshness, writing,
“Certainly to have a fresh fish and to cause it to become unfresh is a terrible act.”
Culinary Ingenuity and Cultural Significance
Chinese cuisine is celebrated for its diversity, subtlety, and “sheer deliciousness.” Dunlop highlights how Chinese culinary practices have influenced global gastronomy, from imitation meat to molecular gastronomy. The Chinese have long prioritized the provenance and terroir of ingredients, a concept that modern Western gourmets have only recently embraced.
Throughout history, Chinese cooking has been seen as a sophisticated art. During the Song dynasty, which lasted from 960 to 1279, a complex gastronomic culture emerged. The era’s material abundance led to a flourishing of culinary creativity, with dishes being elaborated, discussed, and documented. Su Dongpo, an imperial official and poet, wrote about humble dishes of pork and cabbage, highlighting the cultural significance of food.
Fuchsia Dunlop: Bridging Cultures
Fuchsia Dunlop’s journey into Chinese cuisine began in 1994 when she studied at Sichuan University in Chengdu. Her fascination with the local food led her to enroll at the Sichuan Higher Institute of Cuisine, becoming one of its first foreign students. Over the years, Dunlop has become a respected authority on Chinese cooking, not only among Western readers but also within China itself.
Her memoir, Shark’s Fin and Sichuan Pepper, sold approximately 200,000 copies in China, and her latest book, Invitation to a Banquet, has sold 50,000 copies since its publication. Dunlop’s deep understanding of China’s culinary history has earned her a celebrity-like status, known affectionately as “Fu Xia” in Chinese.
Amid China’s rapid modernization, traditional ways of eating are disappearing. Dunlop’s work serves as a crucial bridge, helping both Western and Chinese audiences rediscover and appreciate the rich culinary heritage that might otherwise be lost.
The Modern Challenges and Future of Chinese Cuisine
The transformation of China’s food system over the past few decades has been profound. The introduction of Western fast-food chains and supermarket giants has led to a shift in dietary habits. Many young Chinese now rely on food delivery services, and the consumption of whole grains and vegetables is declining.
According to a 2021 article in Public Health Nutrition, the Chinese now obtain 30% of their calories from animal products and 29% from processed foods, a stark increase from 1990 figures. This shift has led to rising obesity rates and health issues, echoing challenges faced by Western nations.
Despite these changes, there remains a yearning for the simplicity and healthiness of traditional Chinese eating. Popular media, such as the TV series A Bite of China, and social media influencers like Li Ziqi, continue to celebrate and preserve the country’s culinary heritage.
Fuchsia Dunlop’s work is a testament to the enduring power and appeal of Chinese cuisine. Her writings not only document and celebrate the past but also offer insights into how this rich culinary tradition can adapt and thrive in the modern world.
