In the heart of Addis Ababa, a city teetering on the brink of transformation, Sisay, a former railway security guard, reflects on the uncertain future of the Club des Cheminots. For 37 years, he patrolled the railway connecting Ethiopia’s capital to Djibouti, picking up the French language and the game of pétanque from his foreign managers. Now, he spends his days at the club, listening to friendly debates over disputed points, uncertain if he will arrive one morning to find the building replaced by a new skyscraper.
“It seems that they decided that we will have to go, perhaps they will give us somewhere else,” Sisay said. “The French gave us this game, but it is also Ethiopia’s now.”
The Changing Face of Addis Ababa
As Addis Ababa undergoes a dramatic transformation, the city’s skyline is being reshaped by a vision to become the “Dubai of Africa.” Founded in 1886 by Empress Taytu Betul, the city has seen numerous reincarnations. The Italian occupation in the 1930s introduced colonial boulevards and piazzas, while Emperor Haile Selassie’s post-war modernization efforts brought European and Israeli architects to transform what he termed a “great village” into a modern capital.
Since taking power in 2018, Prime Minister Abiy Ahmed has launched perhaps the most ambitious transformation yet, aiming to recast Addis Ababa as “Africa’s capital.” This vision, however, is not without controversy. A short walk from the Club des Cheminots, Meskel Square has been lavishly refurbished, with surrounding blocks razed and 4,000 families displaced. In their place, apartment towers, museums, and parks have emerged, alongside a restored Haile Selassie’s palace, guided by experts from Versailles.
Modernity and Its Discontents
Abiy’s drive for modernity is underscored by a ban on petrol cars, yet the reality is starkly different. Electric vehicles often sit idle due to a lack of parts and mechanics, a symbol of a vision outpacing the country’s capacity where millions still lack basic amenities like piped water and reliable power. The new skyline, dominated by a prescribed palette of grey, leaves many residents questioning its purpose.
Abiy, 49, presents the capital’s transformation and a newly inaugurated hydro-dam on the Nile as symbols of national unity in a country plagued by ethnic conflict. However, this ambition clashes with Ethiopia’s economic reality, reliant on an IMF bailout, and where 20 million people required food aid last year despite billions being funneled into prestige projects. The dam has unsettled Ethiopia’s neighbors downstream, while internal conflict persists in the Amhara and Oromia regions, and the Tigray region requires rebuilding after years of war.
Investments and Implications
On the outskirts of Addis Ababa, a vast new palace complex is rising for Abiy, part of the city’s makeover funded by private and foreign investors, including the United Arab Emirates and China. This raises questions about the promises made to these backers. Meanwhile, at the Club des Cheminots, Temedros Tadesse, a 47-year-old chef at one of the capital’s new luxury hotels, reflects on the club’s significance. He recalls his childhood in Dire Dawa, a key town on the French-built railway line to the Red Sea, and the impact of the line’s Chinese-built replacement, which was plagued by power cuts and mismanagement until Ethiopian control was reestablished last year.
“We are not just here for the boules,” Temedros said, gesturing toward the yellow tables where retired rail workers sip coffee and younger members wait with beers for their turn on the courts. “We are rivals in our game, but we are really here for the friendships. If the club is not saved, we will lose all that.”
The transformation of Addis Ababa is a testament to Ethiopia’s aspirations and challenges. As the city strives to balance heritage and modernity, the future of places like the Club des Cheminots remains uncertain, emblematic of a broader struggle between preserving the past and embracing the future.
