At a time when New Zealand’s coalition government is rolling back policies supporting Maori rights, the power of fashion took center stage during a special showcase of Maori designers at New Zealand Fashion Week. This event highlighted the resilience and creativity of Indigenous designers, offering a vibrant counter-narrative to current political developments.
“I’m in a space where our current government has really lit a fire in my belly,” said designer Nichola Te Kiri, whose label KaistorSt opened the show. Te Kiri’s showcase was a tribute to the strength and resilience of wahine (Maori or Polynesian women), featuring prominent figures from the Maori community.
Maori Representation on the Runway
Before a captivated audience, Te Kiri sent three members of the Maori Party down the runway. Broadcaster Oriini Kaipara evoked the image of Hine Tītama, the “dawn maiden” in Maori mythology. New Zealand’s youngest MP, Hana-Rawhiti Kareariki Maipi-Clarke, followed in a gold taki tahi necklace and contemporary piupiu-inspired braided wrap. Completing the trio was Mariameno Kapa-Kingi, known for her vocal criticism of the government’s policies towards Maori.
Te Kiri expressed that having these three women participate was an emotional moment, underscoring the importance of representation and cultural pride in the fashion industry.
The Kahui Collective’s Vision
Te Kiri was among six designers presenting at the Kahui Collective’s inaugural New Zealand Fashion Week show. Founded by Kiri Nathan in 2017, the collective aims to foster Indigenous talent in an industry often seen as exclusive. Nathan, a prominent Maori fashion designer, has dressed global figures like Barack and Michelle Obama, and Meghan Markle.
“A lot of people are promoters, so they’re not fashion designers,” Nathan explained. “People use Maori, Pasifika, and Indigenous fashion designers to promote whatever their thing is, or be the entertainment with zero reciprocation and zero support, that’s just how it was.”
“Since founding her label in 2010, Nathan has become a trailblazer, opening NZFW in 2023 as the first Maori designer to do so since the event’s inception.”
Diverse Voices and Designs
Jacob Coutie, producing menswear under his label J’AKE, showcased pieces inspired by traditional workwear. “When I first started designing, I wanted to make things I couldn’t find. That turned into a journey of realising there wasn’t really a space for a progression of menswear for Maori men,” he said.
Fijian designer Temesia Tuicaumia reimagined the suluvakataga, a traditional skirt for men, with sharp suiting and bold accessories, challenging perceptions of Indigenous fashion as merely “ethnic” or “costume.”
Designer Czarina Wilson drew on her mixed cultural heritage, blending Tongan techniques with tartan, paisley, leather, and denim. “This collection was a salute to the past, giving recognition to the line of women before me,” she noted, highlighting the influence of her mother’s experiences as a factory worker.
“Showing at NZFW was about pushing that door wider – not only for the next generation, but also for the people here now,” Wilson emphasized.
Celebrating Culture and Community
Mitchell Vincent and Katherine Inder also contributed to the celebration of Maori culture through fashion. Vincent’s collection featured brightly-coloured satin pieces, while Inder’s body-inclusive designs explored her whakapapa (genealogy).
“We’re not only representing culture; we’re also building businesses, growing futures, and holding space for one another in an industry that hasn’t always made room for us,” Inder remarked. Her words encapsulate the spirit of the Kahui Collective and the broader movement to elevate Maori and Indigenous voices in fashion.
The showcase at New Zealand Fashion Week not only celebrated Maori and Indigenous designers but also served as a poignant reminder of the ongoing struggle for cultural recognition and equality. As the fashion industry continues to evolve, the contributions of these designers highlight the importance of diversity and inclusion on the global stage.
