The historic Victorian mansion on the corner of Elliott and Darling Streets in Balmain, once home to the beloved Efendy, has undergone yet another transformation. Eighteen months after becoming Casa Esquina, an Argentinian grill celebrated for its parrilla-cooked steaks and vibrant cocktails, the space has been reimagined by Atticus Hospitality into Elliott’s, a more casual bistro.
John Frid, head chef at Elliott’s and former chef at Esteban and Tequila Mockingbird, explains the shift in focus. “[Casa Esquina] was really meat driven,” he tells Broadsheet. “A lot of smoke and fire – it doesn’t appeal to everybody. I think that’s why it became more of a weekend destination.” Frid notes the challenges of attracting diners during the week, especially when the menu heavily features large meat dishes.
A Culinary Pivot in Response to Changing Tastes
The decision to pivot comes amid broader trends in the dining industry, where economic pressures have led to a decline in dining out. Quick adaptations have become necessary, as seen with other establishments like Neil Perry’s Gran Torino and Bar Copains’ new venture, Vin-Cenzo’s. Elliott’s aims to offer a more accessible menu that appeals to a wider audience throughout the week.
In the plant-filled courtyard and the dining rooms upstairs and downstairs, Elliott’s presents a menu that blends French and Italian influences. Diners can enjoy dishes such as double smash cheeseburgers in buttery croissant buns, Alaskan king crab croquettes, and smoked steak tartare. For those seeking something more adventurous, options include gin-cured salmon topped with bee pollen, calamari with lemon myrtle cream, ponzu-roasted eggplant on barley risotto, and steak frites.
Embracing Freshness and Simplicity
Frid emphasizes the simplicity and freshness of the new menu. “The food is fresh and light, with French and Italian influences,” he says. “Time and skill and technique are involved, but it’s not pretentious.” Complementing the food is a selection of signature cocktails, including the Smokey and the Bandito, a creative take on a white Negroni featuring Aguas Mansas Espadin, a premium mezcal.
Enhancing the Dining Experience with Live Music
The transformation of the venue is not limited to its culinary offerings. Thanks to recent council reforms, Balmain is now one of six special entertainment precincts in the inner west, allowing venues to trade until 2 am on weekends and host small gigs without needing council approval. This change has enabled Elliott’s to introduce a vibrant live music program.
Michael Fegent, director of Atticus Hospitality, shares his enthusiasm for the new direction. “I’ve always been a music person, but it was hard to do [at Casa Esquina],” he says. “Then the changes with the night-time economy came, [bringing] more allowances for live music.” Elliott’s courtyard now hosts DJs spinning vinyl all weekend, with live bands playing blues, soul, and funk on Saturdays. The surrounding garden, featuring birds of paradise, giant ferns, and cacti, adds to the venue’s unique charm.
Looking Ahead: A New Era for Balmain Dining
The reopening of the space as Elliott’s marks a new chapter in Balmain’s dining scene, reflecting broader shifts in consumer preferences and the local economy. As the area embraces its status as an entertainment precinct, venues like Elliott’s are poised to become central to the community’s social and cultural life.
With its focus on fresh, accessible cuisine and a lively atmosphere enriched by music, Elliott’s is set to attract both locals and visitors alike. As the hospitality industry continues to navigate changing landscapes, such innovative approaches could serve as a model for other establishments seeking to thrive in challenging times.
